Today I took my “rocky terrain” canvases from my first day of experiments and turned them into gorgeous home decor pieces with the help of Delight!™ Air Dry Modeling Compound, OOLY Chroma Blends Pearlescent Watercolors, and some metal scrapbooking words. Check out the instructions at http://creativepaperclay.blogspot.com/2018/08/easy-peasy-home-decor-with-delight.html
I am quite pleased with the results. Enjoy!
Oh my goodness! If you have been following the past 2 days, you know that I have been experimenting with acrylic flow painting and the possible pour mediums that can be used. On Day 1 I used a 50/50 blend of Mod Podge/paint plus a little water. It was obviously to thick because I ended up with pieces that looks more rocky terrain than beautiful flow.
Day 2 I changed the ratio by blending Mod Podge first with water (2/3 MP-1/3water). This “base” was then blended 2/3paint – 1/3base. Again I did my pours and was thrilled with the results!! Only problem that I encountered was “crazing” in most of the pieces. Was this caused by the fact that I used a heat gun over the surface to coax “cells” to the surface?? Did I burn the paint? Did the Mod Podge dry quickly? Personally I thought the “crazing” was kind of a cool effect
That brings us to day 3. Armed with thoughts and suggestions from my very knowledgeable network of friends and art teachers I decided to change my base mix to use a product called “Floetrol”, a paint additive designed specifically for smoothing brushstrokes. Once again I “researched” various base mixes and ratios. I decided to go with the following recipe: 50% Floetrol + 25% water + 25% paint. The mix sounded awfully thin to me, but given the fact that my first 2 experiments were probably too thick I jumped in with both feet, mixed up a batch of 6 colors, and headed outside.
Anxious to start I grabbed a cup and started layering the colors. White, blue, green, and then a squirt of silicone.
I continued with 2 more sets of layers, then cut into the layers with a plastic knife (remember not to stir/mix the colors, just cut into them). Time for the flip….and breath holding…and a small prayer (PLEASE let this work!) WAHOOOOOO!!
Oh my goodness, from the get go Cell’s were forming in multiples! Time for tilting and spreading the paint. I let it sit for a minute or two while I ran to grab a straw (remember no heat gun today), then began to tilt. The mix moved a lot faster than in previous experiments. That either means that the mix is TOO thin or I finally have the right balance of paint to base ( only time will tell). Either way the cells were popping, creating amazing results!
Holy Cannoli!!! That is gorgeous! I jumped to grab another canvas and repeated the process, layering paints in a different order. Cut, flip, pull the cup….WOW!
Oh my goodness this is fun! Magical unicorn fun!! I grabbed a third…
Ok it works on canvas. I wondered what would happen on wood. I have a huge stash of materials in my studio, so I grabbed 2 long skinny trays that I picked up “ just because”. Finally something to do with them!
I layered the paints and silicone just as before. This time I decided to pour the paint rather than flip, mainly because of how long the trays were. I poured and held my breath…WOWSER! I think this is my favorite so far ( yes I know I’ve said that before). The cells began popping out. I gently blew on them with a straw and it brought more to the surface. I quickly learned how much force was needed since too much air created muddied areas rather than beauty.
While working on the first tray I glanced at the canvases and noticed areas where the canvas seemed to resist the paint! That’s what I get for using bargain canvases from Ross. Or perhaps the paint mix was too thin and it all ran off? Either way I used the plastic knife to scoop up paint from the tablecover and drizzle it over the “naked” areas. It seemed to do the trick, but I won’t actually know until the canvases dry.
My table was soon filled and all of the paint mixes had been used. I let everything sit outside in the sun hoping it would accelerate the drying process. One issue with drying outside? Tiny flying creatures thought the paintings were beautiful too. In some cases they ventured in a bit too close and (well) gave their all to art 😂. Thankfully I was able to remove any “inclusions” from the paint with a toothpick, barely disturbing the surface.
Next day notes:
- All of the pieces have had a day to dry inside. The canvases look like they are dry, but step away from the desire to touch or you may add some “lovely” fingerprints to the center of your artwork (trust me, I have done the testing for you)! Thankfully I only tested 1 (I’m a quick learner).
- The edges that appeared to resist the paint have now blended in with the painted areas and have taken on the appearance of softer cells. While not perfect, not as bad as they could have been.
- The wood pieces will take much longer for the paint to cure than the canvases. Obviously the canvas allowed the paint to run off and thin while on the tray the paint leveled out, being held in by the sides. Given the fingerprint lesson I think I will allow the 2 wood trays to cure for a week before touching…carefully.
I hope you have enjoyed the past 3 days. Come visit again. Tomorrow I plan to take some of the canvases from the first day (my rocky terrain pieces) and soften them with Creative PaperClay embellishments. Check them out at creativepaperclay.blogspot.com
Let the Acrylic Flow experiments continue! The results from my first experiment yielded “interesting” results, but not at all what I was wanting in terms of flow and the gorgeous POP of cells.
For my second experiment I reworked the base ratio of Mod Podge to paint to water. In the first experiment I went with a 50/50 ratio of MP to acrylic paint and then thinned it to what I thought was a good flow consistency. Sadly the paint was too thick and I ended up with rocky terrain paintings rather than the gorgeous flow that I wanted. I headed back to YouTube to research “recipes” and consulted with my knowledgeable friends. Then I decided upon the formula: 2/3 Mod Podge to 1/3 water (mix thoroughly) for the pouring base. 2/3 paint to 1/3 base + 3 drops of silicone (mix thoroughly). Additional water can be added if needed to create the “perfect” flow. Armed with this formula I once again gathered my cups and set to work mixing paint!
I decided to use neons for this batch. Of course purple is in the mix (big surprise, right guys?). My blue was created from 3 different paints (Apple Barrel, Folk Art, and a shimmery one that I can remember the brand) since there wasn’t enough of any one of them to mix. I also made 2 cups of white this time and left out the black (it seemed to muddy the colors in my first experiment). NOTE: Clear plastic cups allow you to see if all of the components have been mixed together. Time to paint!! YIPPEE
I began layering the colors in a new cup (see experiment one for photos if needed). White went in first, then purple, then pink. a small squirt of silicone (sorry there is no exact measurement for a “squirt”). 3 more paints followed by another squirt and then finally 3 more layers of paint (alternating colors as you go) and a final squirt of silicone. I used a plastic knife to “cut” into the paint mix…please note DO NOT MIX or STIR! Simply cut through the paint layers 2-3 times and then set the knife aside (I scraped the excess off on the side of the cup). Time to do the flip: Place the canvas on top of the cup, hold both components and FLIP! Let the cup rest for a minute or 2. This allows the paint layers to flow down. When you can no longer wait to see….(drum roll) lift the cup (OOOOOOO…AAAAAAAAAA)
The colors were amazing! And right away I begna to see the magical cells forming. WooHoo!! Tilting the canvas up and down, side to side, corner to corner and the paint filled the canvas surface stretching the color and cells at the same time. I was mezmerized by the freeform nature of the technique…and could hardly wait to try a second one.
Before I moved onto a new one I pulled out the heat gun and ran it over the surface, tempting out any hidden cells. NOTE: I learned after the fact that using a heat gun may actually bake the surface, forming a film. I also learned that it can “burn” the paint. A better choice for coaxing out the hidden cells is to blow lightly over the surface using a straw.
Next up, using the colander. As I said before, I watched a lot of YouTube videos with various techniques and tools. One that caught my eye involved pouring the paint into a colander and lifting. The paint flows through the holes in the colander and forms a chrysanthemum looking design. Not sure if I did it correctly, but mine DID NOT come out that way (ooops).
I poured the paint into the colander, waited a moment for it to flow through, and then lifted to reveal…..mush.
Hmmmm, not what I was expecting. I think more experimentation with the colander might be beneficial, but not right now. Back to the gorgeous pour for the next canvas…
I found a 2pk of inexpensive journals at Ross and decided to pick them up along with some more canvases. I used painters tape to shield the pages from the pour.
Ready to pour…
Bolstered by the results on the first, I decided to do the second one. It turned out even prettier than the first! The yellow and pink paints blended nicely together and formed an orange that didn’t come through on any of the otehr pieces.
By now the sun was hot and I was running out of things to paint. I decided to use all of the leftover paint and pour the paint onto the canvases rather than lifting the cup. I filled the cup with layers just as before, set my last 2 canvases on the table and began to pour…
The results were just as beautiful as the other. Cells began to form once the canvases were tilted and the paint spread. this process yielded one of my favorites of the day!
Of course as I said before all of the pieces I painted on this day had the heat gun applied over the surface. I noticed the next day that many of the pieces had a crackled look to them…kind of cool (I think), but not what I thought was going to happen. So I turned it over to my panel of experts and here are their takes:
- It’s called “crazing” and it happens when your pouring medium is too thick. Good to know…I guess the pour that I thought was thin enough wasn’t. Note to self: make sure it pours off the spoon in a thin stream
- It was suggested that the heat gun dried the Mod Podge too quickly and lead to crazing. It was also suggested that any glue-like product may add to the crazing as it dries.
- OR some white paints craze when heated. It was suggested to use a kitchen torch instead of a heat gun. My heat gun is now safely tucked away, but this is still my favorite from the day.
I had multiple friends weigh in with using Floetrol as a flow medium rather than the Mod Podge. In the fairness of experimenting, Floetrol will be in my next post. Keep watch for the next post as well as my next Creative PaperClay blogspot (creativepaperclay.blogspot.com) where I plan to use one of my acrylic flow canvases as a base for a mixed media piece.
Until then, thanks for visiting.
Recently I received a goodie box from Plaid Crafts filled with a variety of acrylic paints, 2 types of Mod Podge, paintable glitter, and much more! As I gazed at the contents I realized that I could use many of the contents to create an acrylic flow painting…or at least I thought I could.
Acrylic Flow painting has captured my mixed media attention. I created a few pieces with friends, then ventured down that long hole called “YouTube”. There are more versions and ideas for how to do it, how to create cells, & what to use as a flow medium than any one person has time to watch! But armed with the knowledge that I wanted to use Mod Podge for my base I was able to fine-tune my search for information.
The first “formula” that I found said to use equal parts of Mod Podge to paint plus enough water to make it “flow”. I pulled out a measuring cup and marked a series of cups with lines marking every 1/8c.
I had a bottle of Mod Podge in my crafting supplies (love the stuff!). I decided to use it up before opening the new one. I poured some into each cup (up to the first line). Then I chose a variety of acrylic colors to add to the cups. Given the 50/50 mix that I was aiming for the paint went up to the second line.
Since I used a clear plastic cup it was pretty easy to see as I mixed to 2 components together if they were thoroughly blended. Stir, stir, stir…it was quickly evident that I needed to add water to the mix if it was going to flow easily. How much water was a juggling act! I added about 1 tsp at a time, mixing after each addition until I had what I thought to be beautifully fluid paints. I repeated the process with a variety of colors (6 cups total). The Mega Glitter Mod Podge was also calling to me, so I created a separate cup using the Mega Glitter and some silver acrylic paint. Once all the paints were ready I went outdoors to experiment with the rest of the process. (NOTE: I covered my table with plastic sheets to contain the mess. A plastic tablecloth could also be used)
In a separate cup I began layering the paints. White played a prominent part in most of the pours that I saw online, so I went to the white first. Then added some blue, and then some purple (I know my friends are “so” amazed that I used purple…haha). Silicone plays a big part in helping the paint create “cells”, so a few drops of that went in next (purchased at Lowe’s in the tool section).
Then the layering continued…a few more colors of paint, then silicone, then paint, then the final drip drops of silicone. I used a plastic knife to cut into the layers…not stirring or blending, just “cutting” through the layers.
Now it was time to put the paint to the canvas! (NOTE: I read to place pushpins on the bottom of the canvas at all 4 corners. This will keep the bottom of the canvas raised above the paint that is sure to be flowing off the sides). I placed the canvas on top of the cup and then flipped it over (obviously holding onto both pieces).
Let the cup sit for a minute or 2 so the paint layers flow down to the bottom. I kept the cup against the canvas and carefully moved it from corner to corner to “prepaint” the canvas. It isn’t absolutely necessary, but it is something that I saw on one of the many videos I watched so I thought “Why not?”. If you do this, be sure not to get too close to the corners or your “flow” will go down the sides instead of happening in the middle of the canvas (I speak from experience)! Now center the cup and LIFT…let the flow begin!
This is the part of the project where you really need a pair of plastic gloves if you have beautiful nails and a roll of paper towels! I have the hands of an art teacher, so I never even thought about gloves. To make the paint flow over the face of the canvas you need to pick it up and slowly tilt back and forth, up and down, side to side. Let the paint flow over the edges. If you see a part of the painting that you really love then try to keep it intact rather than letting it flow over the side. If there are areas that have been missed by paint, use a finger or plastic knife to scoop up some of the drippings and dab them onto the canvas. As I tilted mine back and forth I noticed chunky bits…hmmmm, didn’t see that anywhere in any of the videos (it was my first sign that perhaps I didn’t thin the paints enough!) Once complete, set it aside.
I saw to use a butane torch (like for Creme Brulee’) to bring “cells” to the surface. I am a bit freaky about flames, so I used my heat gun instead to go over the surface. I have since discovered (from some knowledgeable friends) that using a heat gun will either bake the surface of the paint instead of allowing it to flow OR burn the paint causing cracking…so don’t try that! It was suggested that blowing on the surface with a straw will also bring the cells to the surface. I plan to try that on my next go round, BUT before I became knowledgeable I repeated the process 3 more times.
Lessons learned from this first experiment:
- Make sure your paints are actually thin enough for the flow. If you look closely at the photos of my finished pieces you can see that they look chunky, almost terrain-like. I have been told that this is because the paints were too thick before starting. I also wonder if using my old Mod Podge container before opening the fresh, new one may have added to the thickness.
- Don’t use the heat gun! Sadly I didn’t learn this until after my 2nd go round of experimenting (which you will see in my next post).
- Do not pick up your phone to take pictures during the process because no amount of wiping of the hands will keep your phone unpainted! (haha)
While this first experiment doesn’t in any way resemble the gorgeous acrylic flow paintings that I have seen, it does look kind of cool and I plan to use them in a mixed media design with some Creative PaperClay and perhaps some metal. But that will be for a future post. I will definitely experiment again with the lessons learned from this one.
I would like to thank Plaid Crafts for some wonderful products to work with! Come back again for my next round of experiments with acrylic flow painting. See you then!
In my role as an art teacher I change hats from day to day. On Monday, I wear my Middle School hat starting with 5th grade and then traveling through the day with 6th, 8th, and then finishing with 7th. As you can imagine, it is an action packed day!
I introduce my students to many artists, past & present throughout the year. One of my favorite projects this year was based around the Pop Art of Roy Lichtenstein. My 6th graders looked at his work and took it apart layer by layer. Then we recreated our own versions of Pop Art beginning with a wood board, paint, paper, foam core, and the most exciting material…Creative PaperClay®. Visit http://creativepaperclay.blogspot.com/2018/07/pop-art-brought-to-life-with-creative.html to see the whole project and some of the amazing art that my students created!
This is sure to become a yearly favorite lesson…now all I need is someone to cut the boards for me. Any volunteers??
Check out my newest Creative Paperclay blog post at http://creativepaperclay.blogspot.com/2018/06/jim-dine-inspired-hearts-by-linda-hess.html
PLease enjoy the fabulous work of my 3rd grade students. I am blessed to share in their talent.
With Mother’s Day approaching my crafting bug is itching. I teach art to students K-8th grade during the day and run a polymer clay after school program in the afternoon.. My clay kids have created hands holding flowers for their moms (turned into pins and magnets). Some of my art classes have created cards and dimensional flowers. So of course flowers are at the forefront of my mind.
Check out my first blog post at http://www.creativepaperclay.blogspot.com/2018/05/mothers-day-rose.html
I love working with this medium and look forward to future projects and sharing how easy it is to use.
Creative PaperClay (www.creativepaperclay.com)
Gina’s Designs (http://www.ginasdesigns.net/Store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=18_23_25): Spiderweb Shape Set, Spooky Shape Set
Acrylic paints in colors of choice
Recollections Sparkling Embossing Powder (clear silver)
The Ultimate! glue (www.crafterspick.com)
1) Paint large “Spooky” with black and green metallic acrylic. Paint craft ring with Key Lime. Paint bats with metallic black.
2) Paint spiderwebs with silver or grey paint then sprinkle with embossing powder. Heat with heat gun until embossing powder is set.
3) Roll 2 large balls of Creative PaperClay. One at a time press them onto “OO” in “SPOOKY”. Use the tip of paintbrush to hollow out the inside of “Os”.
6) Roll 2 tiny balls for eyes. To attach, dip finger in water and rub on top of spider head. Place eyes in place. Roll a teeny tiny ball for the nose and press into place. Press the tip of a paintbrush into “head” for mouth as shown. Let dry…or place into oven and bake at 275* to quick dry. Once dry, paint as desired.
In my artsy world there is no better thing than gorgeous colors and bling. Imagine my delight when I began to work with a wonderful product called Twinkling H2Os from ColourArte (http://www.colourarte.com/). These fabulous paints combine my 2 loves: color and bling! The paints are simple to use…a little water and a surface to cover. Yep, that’s it!
For this post I have decided to use bits and pieces from around my studio., a destash of sorts. The first piece I pulled was an art doll blank created from Creative Paperclay® (http://paperclay.com/). I layered on Spiced Pumpkin, Rose gold, Sunflower, and Sapphire on Ice and then sprayed with rubbing alcohol. I was hoping for a tie dye effect, but instead I got a softened look to the blend of colors…not what I was expecting, but quite nice. As the alcohol evaporated and shimmer of the paints emerged and my Art Doll began to sparkle (I do love these paints!).
Now what to do with her?? Hmmmm, a canvas would be nice. I found a canvas that I previously painted with Twinkling H2Os in Pretty Peridot, African Jade, Boysenberry, and Sapphire on Ice. I also pulled a few scrap pieces of handmade paper (Thank you Arnold Grummer’s® Papermill Pro http://arnoldgrummer.com/). The paper was layered onto the painted canvas using Crafter’s Pick™ The Ultimate! glue (my favorite). I then placed the Art Doll on top…hmmm, needs a little something more….perhaps some hair?? some beading?? Something else??
…all were glued in place. It still needed a little something…I found some paint pens in my stash and wrote out a beautiful thought (Pinterest is a wonderful place to find all sorts of inspirational sayings!). Another small piece of beaded trim completed the canvas and brought balance.
I hope you have enjoyed this project. Fingers crossed that I will be seeing you again soon on the ColourArte designer Blog 🙂